N1600 crossovers for my 604Ds

[jmarkwart]

Alan,
I agree with dbale, use the 0-50 ohm side of the L pad for P1, and start with about a 10-12 ohm setting. P1 "stands" on a 3 Ohm resistor to ground, which adds a bit of total resistance to P1, but also prevents it from becoming a dead short to ground.
Jeff

[dbale]

Alan,
I agree with dbale, use the 0-50 ohm side of the L pad for P1, and start with about a 10-12 ohm setting. P1 "stands" on a 3 Ohm resistor to ground, which adds a bit of total resistance to P1, but also prevents it from becoming a dead short to ground.
Jeff

Thanks for confirming that Jeff.

[alancohen]

Copy that...thanks guys!!

[alancohen]

Houston, we have a small problem. Got the other crossover done and I'm in the process of installing them when I noticed that the LF driver in one speaker has two 1s instead of a one and a two. On the other speaker the left LF terminal is a 2, and the left HF terminal is a 1. Is this correct? According to Jeff's drawing it is.

[alancohen]

So...the 604s are playing in place of the A6s. In a word...wow!

They definitely go much lower. They also offer up a wall of sound stage. With the A6s I always know exactly where the speakers are. Now, if I close my eyes the 604s disappear. I could get used to this

[Alien_Shore]

Houston, we have a small problem. Got the other crossover done and I'm in the process of installing them when I noticed that the LF driver in one speaker has two 1s instead of a one and a two. On the other speaker the left LF terminal is a 2, and the left HF terminal is a 1. Is this correct? According to Jeff's drawing it is.

do the 9v battery test on it to confirm which terminal is the +

[mah]

1.5V battery is safer and you only touch it on briefly. Do the driver with the 1&2 terminals first and then compare the other one.

[cradeldorf]

I got better bass putting the "+" on the left one, but put where ever you want it to be.

[alancohen]

I was hearing a funky intermittent sound in my left speaker so I decided to break out the measuring equipment.

The good news is that measuring the right speaker yielded the uppermost teal-colored curve. Not bad.

The bad news is measuring the left speaker that was making the noise, I got the bottom blue curve. Not so good.



So I switched the crossovers and the right speaker now had the bad curve and the left speaker was fine, so I guess the good news is...it's the crossover.

Since it's appearing to pass HF OK, I'm thinking the issue is one of the coil connections. Those thing are a bear to solder since they act as a huge heat sink.

Stay tuned...

- - - Updated - - -

So it appears I needed to solder all the connections, not just most of them. Jeez. I neglected to solder one of the L-pad connections which makes sense since it now left the 3W resistor "open" and passed too much high end.

Here's a scan of the repaired bad crossover, but with a little extra L-pad so you can see the effect.



All in all, I'm pretty satisfied. I think I ended up with a pretty usable crossover. Thanks Jeff and Co.

[alancohen]

Does anyone happen to have the impedance curve for a 604C or D? When you get down to the lower bass, how high can the impedance get, at say 35-40Hz?